Tuesday, 26 May 2020

Norfolk - An unforgettable day of British Birding... 15th December 2019


    Whilst I've got many friends who are lucky enough to go birding most weekends, for me going birdwatching to a site such as Oare Marshes, Rainham, Pagham Harbour etc. is normally a bit of a rare treat. Even if it does mean that I get to spend more time locally, especially at my awesome patch Morden Hall Park, very little excites me more than the thought of getting out for some 'proper' birding once in a while... even if it means that I have to annoy other birders for that to happen (which I do feel guilty about sometimes!) So when Ed Stubbs asked me if I wanted to join him and Surrey birders Matt, Sam and Abel on a dawn till dusk birding outing to Norfolk, there was no way I was missing out, especially as it would be my first trip to one of England's best winter wildlife locations. 
    So after a short sleep, I was up and ready at 4am, and by 04:30am I was kindly dropped off at a service station by my mum (I probably still owe her for that!) After several hours we reached Cambridge where we picked up Sam, before heading up to our first site of the day, Titchwell RSPB. Unfortunately, we got there a little after dawn had broken, meaning we didn't get to see the full Marsh Harrier roost spectacle of c.90 birds. There was nothing to complain about though, as we still saw over 30 birds circling the reedbeds. Already we were seeing some great species - on our walk to the sea from the car park, we were joined by a hunting Barn Owl, Kingfisher, Bullfinch, Chiffchaff, the first Pink-footed Geese of the day and a fleeting glimpse of a Merlin, in addition to numerous waders, with Bar-tailed Godwits, Ringed Plover, Sanderling and Grey Plover all noted. Seeing as I'd barely seen any seabirds in my life anyway, we knew it wouldn't be too hard to get at least a few lifers; from the moment we got to see the sea, where we met David Stubbs (former Surrey birder,) I was helped onto my first Long-tailed Ducks - two stonking males - and multiple flyby Red-throated Divers. My 3rd lifer of the day was then a female Eider that was sat contentedly on the water. As we looked outwards, waders whistled past mere metres away, whilst 'Pinkfeet' honked overhead. Strange to think that 24hrs before I'd been writing a history essay at school, and now here I was having the time of my life on the Norfolk coast...



Barn Owl

Pink-footed Goose

Pink-footed Goose

    Fortunately, as we continued to watch the many Red-breasted Mergansers, they were briefly joined by 2 1st-winter Velvet Scoters, with their white wing bars clearly showing as they flew further out to sea. Although we hadn't seen any Common Scoter by this point, it was still a learning experience and now, hopefully, I'd be more comfortable trying to find my own Velvet Scoters in the future. 4 lifers inside the first hour was a pretty epic start to the day, and the stunning sunrise behind us made my first visit to Titchwell a memorable one. By 09:15am, where we began to trudge back to the car so we could move on to the next site, we had already logged 70 species, with 2 handy Water Pipits being a welcome addition to the list. 

Titchwell RSPB - looking out to sea

Bar-tailed Godwit, Black-tailed Godwit and Grey Plover

Little Egret

Redshank


    Our dream start to the day was followed by a less success drive around the area of Burnham Market, where we didn't manage to find a Lesser White-fronted Goose (or any geese for that matter) that had been hanging around. A brief stop near Burnham Overies added multiple thrushes, 2 Great White Egret and a Yellowhammer to the day list, and the first larger flocks of Pinkfeet flew straight over head. For me and Abel, as it was our first trip to Norfolk in the winter, it was our first real 'woah' moment, even if it was 'only' a few thousand birds...
We then continued on towards Holkham Dunes, another one of Norfolk's most renowned nature reserves. However, our drive there was crazy in itself. Although a flock of Egyptian Geese was a sight to behold, one of the moments of the day (which I typically missed most of) was where a Peregrine took out a Common Redshank mid-air, only to be robbed of it's meal by a Marsh Harrier. Of course I missed this, but I didn't miss the Short-eared Owl that drifted past after being disturbed by the quarrelling raptors above! My 5th lifer of the day, and a much awaited one, despite the views being very brief. I was lucky to latch on to this bird, as we had no further luck with SEO the rest of the day, and it remains my only one to date, so far...

Pinkes and Wigeon

Pinkies and Wigeon

Grey Partridge

Grey Partridge


   As we got out of the car at Lady Ann's Drive, all the Pinkfeet feeding in the surrounding fields were spooked and rose up in their thousands. It was pretty mindblowing really, and unlike anything I'd ever seen in the UK. To add to the excitement a small group of Grey Partridge were chilling beside the path, making it my first sighting of the species in several years sadly. With whistling Wigeon all around us, as well as handfuls of other geese and ducks, I could've stood there all day but there were Shorelark and Snow Bunting to find! 
When we hit the beach we all split up to try and find the target birds, failing to do anything but get damp feet in a channel near the sea. We took a short moment to have a look out over the water, and whilst we watched a close female Common Scoter, hundreds maybe even thousands more of the species were flying over the water's edge (I'd only seen about 20 before these flocks!) I was also pleased to spot a larger diver flying distantly over the water, meaning I'd finally seen all 3 common diver species, as this Great Northern Diver followed the Red-throated Divers from earlier on in the day. 

Shelduck

Great Northern Diver

Great Northern Diver

m Red-breasted Merganser

m Red-breasted Merganser

f Common Scoter

f Common Scoter


    As we drifted east along the dunes, talking about the number of out of control dogs, Sam called to say he was watching both the Snow Buntings and Shorelark which were settled a short distance away. Soon enough we were watching the large flock of 89 Snow Bunting and 5 Shorelark, all whilst they busily fed on the Dune heath. Shorelark has been a species I'd dreamt of seeing many times, and so I really drank in the awesome views that we had of the charismatic species. I could happily have watched them all day...
We watched them for quite a while, and during this time 4 of us managed to hear a Lapland Bunting that must have been hanging around in one of the other flocks present by the dunes (either the Meadow Pipit or Linnet flocks?) Despite not seeing it, hearing it was still nice enough with the success we'd had already on the day - 8 lifers by 11:30am did not have me complaining!

Holkham Dunes

Shorelark

Shorelark

Shorelark

Snow Bunting

Snow Bunting

Shorelark


    After collecting a few more year ticks, a quick drive back up the road got me and Abel another lifer in the shape of White-fronted Geese. We'd somehow missed it on the way in but there were pretty good numbers out feeding on the marshes with the Pink-footed Geese and Brent Geese. With limited daylight left, we then sped on to our final coastal location of the day to pick up the Rough-legged Buzzard at Wells-next-the-sea. Unfortunately it wasn't actively hunting - watching it hovering properly would've been quite special - but taking a snooze at the back of a field that also hosted a Lapwing flock. Eventually, after a short wait that saw me drop my phone into a puddle, breaking it further, it took off from it's sheltered bush and headed out across the marsh before a very brief hover clearly showed us its white tail band and uppertail coverts and distinctive carpal patches, before it disappeared into another bush. Another great bird to see, regardless of how far it was!

Rough-legged Buzzard

Rough-legged Buzzard

Rough legged-Buzzard

Rough-legged Buzzard


    With 10 lifers in the bag already, I was unsurprisingly thrilled with how the day had gone so far, and it was only around 1pm. Our next stop was to be RSPB Buckenham Marshes, as although we'd failed with Taiga Bean Geese once already, we were going to give them another go inland. However, Ed had a little treat for me along the way. After some useful info from Jake Gearty, we stopped at a small patch of woodland besides the road and I finally, after years of failing to see them at all sorts of places, including a pair near my house, saw my first Little Owl after a very short wait. Shamefully it had been my biggest 'bogey bird' for over 3 years...
On to Buckenham Marshes - a walk to a good viewing point helped us see a large flock of c.80 Skylark, although very little else besides the usual wildfowl. Around 10 Ruff added to an ever-growing day list, and a few Chinese Water Deer were darting around the marshes. The 3 with a scope (mine's broken) all got on to trying to find the Taiga Been Geese which were refusing to play ball, despite a few possible birds seen. As time go on, passing 14:30, we were torn between trying to refind the exciting geese subspecies and heading on to Stubb Mill in the hope for more harriers and one of my most wanted UK birds, Common Crane. Eventually, with the geese being so far away, we rushed back to the car, especially as we thought we may have left it to late to decide whether to stay or go. With light fading by the minute, we thought we would be ending the day with a dip but Abel had other ideas. I don't think I've ever been in a car going so fast down country lanes before; I'd never have thought flying along small, East-Anglian roads at breakneck speed would be so fun...

Buckenham Marshes RSPB

Pink-footed Goose

Black-tailed Godwit

Geese and a Muntjac

m Wigeon

    After one of the most ridiculous/exciting car journeys of my life, we reached Stubb Mill/Hickling Broad car park just as the sun descended, and a speed-walk along a path that felt like quicksand soon saw us reach the viewpoint for the Crane/harrier roost. A Barn Owl was hunting by the path, and 2 Water Pipits took off from the scrapes calling. Within a few minutes, we lucked out and Abel spotted 2 distant Cranes heading in to roost, their distinctive shapes standing out above the tree line. As light vanished, so did the other birders until it was just the 5 of us, watching a constant stream of Marsh Harriers emerging over the reedbeds. Several Woodcock flew past our faces, whilst a pair of Tawny Owl decided to announce themselves, making them the 106th bird of the day. However, from 4pm till 430pm we were treated to a birding spectacle that really was a 'goosebump' moment. Just as my phone died on me, several flocks of Common Crane, 25 in total, d from the distance and flew straight over our heads. There are some birding experiences I'll never forget, and hearing their powerful, evocative call echoing around the broads as they circled over our heads will no doubt be one of them - I was more or less spellbound, and few other birding experiences will beat that for me. One of the best bird sounds I've ever heard...

Common Crane

Common Crane

Whoopers


    With the calls of the cranes ringing inside my head, things didn't stop there, as a flock of honking Whooper Swans bombed it over our heads heading to roost, as did several massive flocks of Pinkfeet. Leaving to the sound of the pinkies seemed a fitting way to end my first day's birding in Norfolk, and a day I'll never forget. With 12 lifers (+ another heard only,) and a day list of 109, we had no complaints on our return to Surrey; it's fair to say that for the first time in the winter, I was absolutely buzzing the next day at school, where I felt like I was hearing Common Cranes throughout the day. Very little can match the wintry sights and sounds of Norfolk birdlife. 

A dreadful video (quality downgraded when uploading to YouTube) but you don't need to see the Cranes to appreciate the sound!

    As always, a massive thanks to Ed Stubbs for organising, Abel for the driving and Sam and Matt for the great company. I feel very lucky to have been asked to join such great birders on such a trip, and hopefully will be able to return again in the next year or so :)

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